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Going Underground
Tuesday 11 March, 2008

Light at the end of the tunnel

Hidden away behind the back of Clapham North tube station is a door to a hidden world. Behind a padlock and then deep down below, VERY deep down below is the scene where some 8,000 British troops were hidden away from Mr Hitler during the Second World War. The bars of Clapham buzz overhead, whilst 30 metres down below is a forgotten world of tunnels, stairwells and intrigue: Welcome to the Clapham North Deep Level Air Raid Shelter.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

If you're scared of the dark or suffer from claustrophobia then turn back now. I very nearly did, but the lovely Stockwell Partnership people had somehow managed to set up this unique once in a lifetime opportunity to explore the underground below the Underground. With the Northern Line (not exactly afraid of deep excavations itself) trundling above my head, I took a deep breath of musty air and an uncertain walk along the Clapham Road, 1940's air raid shelter style. Nothing much had changed.

Ten deep level shelters were designed for London during World War II. Eight of these were eventually built, four north of the river (Belsize Park, Camden Town, Goodge Street, Chancery Lane,) and four south (Stockwell, Clapham South, Clapham Common and Clapham North.) St Paul's missed out as it was considered too close to the Cathedral foundations, as did The Oval, where the water table rises considerably.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Construction started on the shelters in November1940 and was completed only two years later, an incredible feat of wartime engineering given the lack of manpower due to the war effort. Twenty four thousand tons of cast iron was required to line each tunnel, although this only covered one third of the length. Reinforced concrete was the preferred material, but this couldn't be fitted during the winter months due to the weather.

Troops were initially housed below ground, hidden away from Hitler. It was not until the Blitz started that the deep level shelters were opened up to the public during air raids. Clapham North first became active for civilians on July 13th, 1944. Eight thousand people could take shelter at each location, a figure slightly short of the original plan to house 9,600. The initial cost per head was £15. The reduction in capacity led to the final figure being around £35.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Each structure consists of two parallel tunnels, five meters in diameter, 2.3 miles long and 30 metres underground. Bunk beds would have lined the passages some sixty years ago. The basic logistics alone take some beating: Imagine carrying 4,000 bunk beds down into the eight shelters, and then... lifting them all out again. If you're ever looking for somewhere to stay after a heavy night out at The Swan in Stockwell, the SW8 shelter may come in handy. The bunk beds still remain underground here, although you might want to bring your own blankets.

Once the War was over, London was left with an unused deep level underground network. Squatters and the homeless used the shelters until May 1945, when apart from the Stockwell station, all of the bunk beds were taken above ground. The plan was to use the tunnels as a fast track train service running from North to South, hence the equal split of locations on either side of the river. This never materialised due to a lack of funding.

Chancery Lane was converted into a 500-line trunk telephone exchange in the 1950's; Goodge Street continued use as an army transit centre until 1951; Camden Town last saw any action during some filming for Blake's 7. With the Cold War and nuclear fall-out fears still looming at late as the 1980's, the shelters remained a possible place for refuge.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

In 1990 London Underground took control of the shelters and immediately went about exploring commercial opportunities. Clapham North is unique amongst the eight shelters. The seven others are currently rented out at a moderate profit by LU for data storage. A team of up to ten deep level data handlers work underground in the relative luxurious setting of Goodge Street. Putting a dampener on things in South London is Clapham North; it's just too moist for any data to survive. Tests are being carried out with a pile of cardboard boxes laid deep down below to rot. Whilst the novelty of a one off visit was quite exciting, I can't imagine the data shift deep underground to be one of the better jobs in London.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

I entered the Clapham North tunnel near the tube station, and not via the large building housed nearby on the Clapham Road. Like the proud and highly decorative counterpart at Stockwell, this is used primarily as a ventilation shaft, although it was used as an emergency exit for the public during the War.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

A small reception area awaited me behind the basic wooden door. Don't expect popcorn and ice creams, but reflective bibs and rubber gloves were needed:

'You may put your hand in some rat excrement,' explained our helpful guide from Tube Lines. 'If you hear my little gadget beeping, don't worry - it either means a lack of oxygen or poisonous gas.'

Past the reception area and I nervously made my way down the spiral staircase, not quite sure of what lay below. Halfway down and I could hear and feel the vibrations from the Northern Line. At least the trains were running on time.

Round and round until eventually we reached the foot of the first tunnel. It's hard for a seasoned Londoner to get excited about an underground tunnel lit up as far as the eye can see. I half expected to be asked to move along the platform, and then be warned to 'mind the gap.'

But a dark, empty tunnel that is steeped in history has a magical appeal. London Underground thought the same a few years ago and floated the idea of letting out the Clapham North shelter. An estate agent was even hired with a To Let sign puzzling SW4 locals on top of the ventilation shaft along Clapham Road.

Nothing came of the idea, as the dampness, which prevents data storage, would also affect any commercial enterprise. Which is a shame, as the space would make for either the perfect underground nightclub, or perhaps even a tourist attraction south of the river. With the nearby Imperial War Museum along Kennington Road, Clapham could become a satellite site for all the visiting school kids.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The sanitary facilities may need some improvement first. We were shown where the dry toilets from the 40's were situated. But sanitary waste rarely stays dry, especially not deep underground in a damp tunnel. A Women's sign still remains, as does the smell.

With most of War-ridden London now re-built, the capital's deep level shelters are the last remaining link to a past where the life of Londoner's would be unrecognisable now; appalling sanitary conditions, overcrowding and rations, then in the morning you had to return up above, not knowing if your house was still standing. It is such suffering that makes modern Londoners so strong and resilient.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Past the toilets and we were shown where the kitchens were located. Basic food provisions and hot drinks were delivered by a lift to the eight canteens. This machinery is still working, but is no longer used. At the far end of each tunnel is where the hospital beds were found. Best to isolate disease and keep it away from the other 8,000 underground dwellers. Towards the North end of the tunnel I was surprised to see a graffiti tag. Banksy hadn't made his way deep down below, but some innovative little scamp had.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

With the stretch of the main tunnel now walked along, we were treated to a further surprise - the tunnel underneath the tunnel. This was more like a half pipe structure and was where all the cabling would have been kept during the War. Telephone lines, lighting and ventilation equipment would have once lined this space. It is now empty, but during the War and it would have been packed from ground to ceiling with the essentials for keeping the shelter operational.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

At the end of this stretch is an emergency entrance (now bricked up) that leads directly up to the tube station itself. This would also have been used during the War to allow direct access to the shelter for any passengers arriving on the Underground. It was here that my camera lens steamed over, such was the humidity of the location. Seasoned South London tube passengers during the summer will recognise this experience.

And so what is to become of London's lost underground network? Piles of boxes for the seven shelters that can store them seem the long-term solution. Clapham North is a misfit and remains intriguing. The structure of the tunnel is still maintained with annual engineering inspections taking place. London Fire Brigade also inspect for safety, although there is an agreement that there's no point in fighting a fire down there. There's nothing to burn, the structure will withstand the heat and any fire will eventually burn itself out.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The shelter has survived for sixty years and there's no reason why it can't survive for sixty more. But it needs a purpose, it needs a use. I made my way back above ground, de-bibbed and inspected my surroundings. It was still Clapham, it was still 2008. The overheard announcement, a plea for passengers to avoid obstructing the doors confirmed this. But I had a sense that for an hour and a half on a midweek morning, I had experienced part of London's hidden away past. Looking back into the life of Londoner's can tell you a lot about where we are today.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Many thanks to Mac at Tube Lines and George at the Stockwell Partnership for organising this trip.

This article has been edited by Tube Lines.

A version of this article was first published in Time Out, London.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

An old sign and a mysterious door leading you towards a different world.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The Ministry of Public Buildings and Works. Proper signage!

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Getting all bibbed up ahead of the mystery tour.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Looking back up towards the main entrance. This initial set of stairs takes you down below towards the more steeper spiral staircase.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

A fellow bibbed up mystery tripper.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Here be toilets. Well, it's where the gents would have been. The fittings for the urinals are still visible. The smell also hangs in the air.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Looking along the main tunnel.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

More tunnel action.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Gentrification, This Way>>>>

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Look at those curves!

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The stretch of the main tunnel. This is where some 4,000 (!) bunk beds would have been placed during the Blitz.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The stairs that lead you below to the tunnel beneath the tunnel.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

The half pipe tunnel structure underneath the main area. This is where the cabling for lighting and phone lines would have ran during the War.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Walking up the stairs towards the bricked up Clapham North exit. Mind yer head!

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Note the humidity on the camera lens!

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

I've had cooler Turkish baths to be honest.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Clapham North up above.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Wot No Banksy?

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

How on earth did Insanity get down here? Respect, like.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

One end of the main stretch of the tunnel. This is where a makeshift hospital ward would have been housed.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Bin collections aren't what they use to be around Lambeth...

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

Probably best not to drink from here.

Clapham North Deep Level Shelter

What price on eBay?




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